Home Sweet Home!

After the worst travel day ever--a delayed flight in Santa Cruz, Bolivia, waiting for over 30 minutes for luggage in Miami, running for the plane to San Francisco and just making it--I am home! I'm so happy, but it does feel strange! When I landed in Miami, I was a little confused--I kept speaking Spanish to people in the airport and got very strange looks, I couldn't figure out what to do with my toilet paper in the bathrooms, considering we cannot flush anything down the pipes in Bolivia, driving on the freeway was a new experience, hearing so much English has been strange, and reminding myself I can eat ice was a pleasant surprise!

I am so excited to see family and friends this weekend! I have missed everyone so much!

But, I do miss Bolivia, especially the kids from Ninos con Valor, so much! But, in about three weeks I will be turn around and have another very long day of travel to the heart of Cochabamba!

But, for now, I am going to enjoy this holiday season with my family and friends!

Merry Christmas Eve!
Feliz Navidad!

3 Days and Counting...

In three days I will be boarding an Aerosur flight to Santa Cruz, Bolivia for a night before a very early morning flight on Thursday that will take me to Miami, and finally to San Francisco! I really cannot express in words all the emotions and thoughts, feelings and excitement, nostalgia and uncertainty that are circulating and lingering in my mind.

Last night, after spending a few hours with the girls--we had a Christmas Tea Party and played a few card games--I had to prepare myself to say goodbye. It was so hard! I know I will be visiting the homes a few times this week, but saying goodbye will be so difficult. I feel like I got to know a lot of the girls much better during a adventure to Potosi and Sucre! So, leaving at this moment does not seem plausible or possible. Part of me is dying to be home, and the other part is not ready to say goodbye or see you later!

This week will be filled with goodbyes and despedidas (a goodbye party)! I don't know if I am ready, but whether I am or not, it will happen!

To all those at home, I really cannot wait to see you! And, for all those in Cochabamba, I am not ready to say bye! But, life moves on!

I am off to a Chrstmas dinner/Despedida at Tyson and Carolina's house!

A Long Overdue Update!

This post is long overdue, but life has been absolutely insane! Since the end of November, I had my first overseas Thanksgiving. It was definitely not the same as home, but I was surrounded by other volunteers who were missing home just as much as I was! Instead of a turkey, we had rotisserie chicken, which I had the privilege of carving! It was exciting! Sofia was the second girl to have her quince, and she was absolutely beautiful! She enjoyed her night full of amazing friends and family, delicious food (which the girls, tias, and volunteers helped prepare), and fun dancing! It has been so fun to part part of these 2 quinces! Like Olivia, I got to take Sofia to get her haircut and styled and her nails done for the big day! These are the special moments I will never forget! December 1st, World AIDS day, was celebrated here in Cochabamba. I had the privilege of partaking in the celebration with Ninos con Valor. All 24 girls and 14 young ones participated in a march from the top of the Prado to the Main Plaza downtown. It was an amazing experience, considering I work with children who suffer from this disease and the stigma that comes with it. The tias and the girls helped wheel the younger babies in strollers and carry others. It really was very powerful to see how many people turned out! In 20 or 25 years, the AIDS/HIV epidemic in Bolivia will be close to the situation in Africa, or even worse! People are starting to take it seriously, but there is still work to be done!

Last Sunday, we boarded a sleeper bus destined for Potosi. The staff and volunteers of Corazon del Pastor, the girls' home, headed south for the annual vacation. Every time I go on an adventure with the girls, I am shocked by their maturity and patience! They truly are amazing! Traveling with the girls enabled me to bond with many of them on a much deeper level. I am so many amazing memories from this trip, and pictures that really are worth a thousand words! The girls made the trip something so special and unforgettable. We visited churches and miradors that held the rich history and culture of Potosi! This amazing city was once regarded as the Paris of the Americas, but is now considered one of the poorest in the world. It sits up in the mountains, and is the highest city in the world. For once being such a treasure, it has been disregarded. You can still see the beauty, however, that once brought wealthy Europeans and North Americans to Bolivia! Sucre, the white city, was just as breathtaking! All the buildings near the main plaza are white! I was shocked at how clean the city was! Here Bolivia's Declaration of Independence was signed by Simon Boliviar, the Liberator. Sucre is a treasure, but today much political unrest caused by the conservatives of the city is palpable. We tried Saice, a traditional dish in Sucre with beef, potatoes, and rice--it was delicious, or muy rico as we say!

But, on a day to day basis, trips to the park with the young ones have been frequent and vacation time with the girls has been great! Having them all home together has made for great reading time and art projects, game time and chats!

In less than a week I will be heading back home for about 3 weeks before I return to Cochabamba for language school and more volunteering with Ninos con Valor! I am so excited to see the people I have missed for over 6 months! Here is to my last week in Cochabamba--to memories and special moments!

Word of the Week: ENJOY!

This week has definitely not been one of my best, but it is beginning to turn around! It began with a horrible sore throat, a high fever, and very bad neck pain. All of these are symptoms of typhoid fever and/or salmonella, and I was encouraged to get tested for both. Never a good way to start a week, but luckily, after a quick stop at the laboratory, it was confirmed that I had neither typhoid nor salmonella. I decided to also get a throat culture because my throat was far from normal. Tomorrow I will be getting the results, and hope it is nothing too serious. But, being the daughter of my father, I decided to take a trip to the pharmacy for some antibiotics. I opted for the strongest amoxicilan available. Thanks to this medicine, which was under $6 for 30 pills, I am feeling much better! Oh, I will miss the Bolivian pharmacies!

Also, this week has been very trying in other ways:

1. This is my first official week living alone in Cochabamba, Bolivia. From June-August I was living in a room at Corazon del Pastor, the girls' home. Although I was the only volunteer living there, I always had girls coming in and out, and spent a lot of time talking, reading, or playing games with the girls. It was far from lonely. And, from August up until last week I lived in the Maryknoll volunteer house with Tim, another short-term volunteer. So, this week it has been a little strange having no one living with me. However, Juan Francisco and David, the priests who live in front of the volunteer house, come over often to check-in and make sure everything is okay. Having time to myself has given me the opportunity to journal more, listen to music and relax, and devote more time to activities I enjoy and getting to know more people.

2. With Thanksgiving, which is my favorite holiday, quickly approaching, I seem to be getting more and more home sick. Because, in my opinion, Thanksgiving is really the only holiday that encourages thankfulness and gratitude for family and friends, and especially what we are fortunate to have, I am sad I will not be with my Mom and Dad, and my family and friends. But,distance does not hamper or place a restraint on the love and the gratitude I have for those in my life! As many say, in contrast, distance makes the heart grown fonder! So, even though I will not be present for the carving of the turkey or the serving of the stuffing, I will be thinking of and appreciating all those I love at home!

3. I am getting more and more anxious to head home! In under 6 weeks, I will board a plane to head to San Francisco! Yes, I am so excited to be home and see everyone I have missed dearly. But, I am also nervous to head back to the states. After almost 7 months, I have/will have become accustomed to life in Cochabamba--taking the s or 27 micro to work, shopping in the cancha, speaking Spanish, the kiss on the cheek greeting... However, I think the excitement of seeing everyone and being home for the holidays will overshadow the likely culture shock...I hope!

I have been struggling this week with all these thoughts and emotions. But, I keep reminding myself to enjoy each moment and each day--a goodbye kiss from Guillermo, helping Paty with her homework, reading with Nohemi, laughing and joking with Sofia and Camila, enjoying a meal with the Bolivian tias, who have graciously welcomed me into their lives, daily interactions with neighbors in the barrio. Each minute holds such beauty that I cannot forget to treasure and appreciate these tiny, but amazing moments!

Dia de los Difuntos!

Monday, November 1st we celebrated All Saints Day in Bolivia. This day is to honor all saints, and people who have died that you consider saints. Tuesday, November 2nd was All Soul's day or Dia de los Difuntos. (It is similar to Dia de los Muertos, but in Bolivia the day of celebration is referred to as All Saint's Day! There are many similar traditions to the Day of the Dead practices celebrated in Mexico and other Latin American countries.) The girls did not have school either day, but we discussed the meaning of both days and the traditions. Some of the girls have lost parents or siblings, and it was a tough time for them.

Tuesday was a feriado, or holiday here, and some volunteers and I had the opportunity to visit the main cemetery in Cochabamba. We took the bus to the area, and there were tons of people--some women and children were selling flowers, mini beverages and food to place in the tombs, huge lunches, wreathes, etc. When we arrived at the cemetery, people were having picnics on the grassy areas, singing songs, decorating the tombs, enjoying the company of family, sharing food and drink together in honor of a loved one. I did notice how many family members were there to support each other!

Unless your family has money, the dead are buried on tombs in the wall. The buildings housing the tombs are one or two stories and have 5 or 6 tombs in a row on top of one another. The wealthier families have huge crypts that are decorated with glass and statues, huge letters and marble. So, even in the cemetery one can witness the difference and the separation between the classes in Cochabamba.

We walked around the cemetery observing and watching the celebrations and decorating.It was amazing to see tons and tons of Cochabambinos out celebrating and remembering the life of someone they loved and cared so much about!

When we exited it was as if we entered another world. On the road outside of the cemetery, huge tents were set up in dedication to loved ones. It was like a festival and a party! The family members were sitting around the display of food and candy, beverages and pictures drinking chicha (a traditional alcoholic beverage), eating huge meals, talking, playing games--just enjoying the family time and celebrating the life of the one they love and miss. The food and decorations set up on tarps and aguayos inside and outside of the cemetery was arranged in a certain order to help guide the spirit.

Visiting the cemetery on All Soul's Day was an incredible experience--taking in the sights and the sounds, the beauty of the celebration and the culture. I was captivated by the dedication to decorating and ensuring that a loved one's spirit was content. Many of the families must have spent so much time and so much money to decorate and provide food and drink to the visiting spirits. It is absolutely incredible how much reverence and respect the Bolivians have for those who have passed away.

Heading Back, Again!

This past week has been full of wonderful memories and moments! Olivia, one of the residents of Corazon del Pastor, turned 15! She is the first girl to “become a woman!” I had the wonderful opportunity to take her to Pablo’s Peluqueria (hair salon) for her birthday haircut! She liked the cut, but hated that they put curls in her hair after. It was great to spend time with she and two other girls who came along for support. Last Saturday night, we celebrated her quincinera! I had so much fun dancing with the girls and the tias! The celebration turned out wonderfully! There is a tradtion where the birthday girl has 14 friends who walk in formally in gowns carrying roses and candles. Then, the birthday girl walks in with her dad and they dance and go around to each girl to collect roses and blow out the 14 candles. However, because Rosa does not have parents present in her life, her “sisters” and Tyson filled in. Fourteen of the younger girls put on their fancy dresses and walked in with purple candles and red roses. And, Tyson, executive director of Ninos con Valor, danced with Olivia and assisted her with the symbolic tradition. It was beautiful, and as I watched and took pictures, I thought about how lucky I am to be part of this amazing organization! The party went on past one in the morning--it was pretty happening! Also, some of the most popular boys in school came wearing ties and dress shirts. The older girls were very excited about this, and had a great time dancing with the boys!

Sunday was just as eventful with mass at 10 AM, an Indian lunch at Brooke and Tom's house (which was absolutely delicious!), and dinner with Juan Francisco and David! I am really enjoying my time in Bolivia, and am so thankful to have gotten to know and become friends with the tias whom I work with, David and Juan Francisco (two priests that live in front of us), and many others I have met along the way!

Monday I had a coloring session with a few of the young kids at Pedacito and it was so fun! They enjoyed scribbling, and were so proud when they showed me their work! These are the moments that have truly impacted me. I will never forget sitting there and encouraging them to color more and telling them how beautiful and amazing their pictures were as each kid held up his or her paper with pride!

Because of events like these, I have decided to return to Cochabamba in January of 2011! I will spend six weeks at the Maryknoll Language Institute refining my Spanish, and then about five months as a full-time volunteer again with Ninos con Valor! I am very excited about this decision, but it was a difficult one to commit to. I do miss my family and friends from home so much, but I know that returning to Bolivia is what I need to do right now. I am excited to return for a little bit to watch the little ones and the girls grow and mature, to celebrate birthdays and special occasions, to be and older sister and a confident to the older girls, to spend time reading and singing songs to the babies and toddlers. I only wish I could be in two places at once!

I know I have said this before, but I have to repeat it again, I cherish and appreciate each moment with these wonderful Bolivian kids, and could not imagine my time in Cochabamba without being part of their lives. The kids of Ninos con Valor have taught me and continue to teach me new lessons each day! I look fondly on past memories, enjoy the present moments, and look forward to what the future holds for me here in Cochabamba, Bolivia!

So Grateful!

This week I officially have 2 months or 8 weeks left here in Cochabamba--bitter sweet! I am excited to head home and see family and friends, and of course, indulge in the foods I have been craving--Thai and Indian, Italian and Mexican, Barney's and Genova's. But, I am sad to leave the amazing kids I work with. Each day has been a learning experience--learning a new word or a piece of Bolivian culture. I am so grateful for this amazing experience and opportunity! I have not changed, but I am a different person than when I left on June 11th. Because of the stories I have heard and because of the people I have encountered and gotten to know, because of the hours spent with the younger kids and the girls of Ninos con valor and the cultural experiences in South America, I will never be the same.

I came down to Bolivia, the poorest country in South America, to try and make an impact in the live of children who have been abandoned and neglected, abused and mistreated. However, they have impacted me more than I could ever have imagined. I treasure each moment spent with the girls and the young ones. I think of them as the little sisters and brotehrs I never had.

Each girl possesses a heart-breaking past full of trauma and sadness, but each girl smiles and laughs, loves and shows affection. These girls have learned that one cannot be broken by his or her past, but must learn from it, grow stronger, and move forward. These girls are my heroes! They have seen and experienced things young kids should never live through. In the words of Ms. Joss Stone, they are "bruised, but not broken."

The residents of Pedacito del Cielo have similar pasts of abandonment and abuse, but many of them probably, and hopefully, do not remember these experiences. However, the tias and staff of Ninos con Valor provide such love and support to each child to make a positive impact. Despite the painful pasts, I believe these young ones will grow up to know only love and respect because of the positive influence of the organization and staff.

Well, here's to two more absolutely amazing, absolutely beautiful, absolutely marvelous months in Cochabamba, Bolivia!

How is Faith Maintained in Destitution and Sadness?

Today during our volunteer meeting we discussed how God accompanies people and what the importance of prayer is in this relationship. Recently, I have been struggling with the issue of God's role in people's lives. Here in Bolivia, extreme poverty and destitution, sadness and heartbreak, abuse and neglect are seen daily. However, Bolivians, and Latin Americans in general, possess so much faith. Where does this undying, strong sense of faith come from? We talked about how Bolivians who live in such poverty and sadness still have this faith in the Kingdom of God, and many will tell you that prayer is the answer to everything.

During religious celebrations, people will buy miniature items of things they wish for--money and plane tickets, houses and babies, a wedding and a car. This seems very materialistic, but majority of the people who partake in this tradition are extremely impoverished. They will never be able to afford a house or a car or a plane ticket to visit family in the U.S. or Spain. However, each year they return to the celebration with their miniature wants. Why do they continue to return? Do they truly believe that God will grant them these things? Or, is it just our of tradition, habit, and practice?

It is so interesting to me in a place like Bolivia, where people experience poverty and injustices on a daily basis, God is "present" to them. God's name is plastered on the buses and the trufis, many people make the Sign of the Cross whenever passing a church, many constantly pray. Religion is deeply rooted in the culture of Latin America, despite the violence and the poverty, the abuse and the neglect, and the day-to-day struggle majority of the people experience. Maybe God and religion are the only things people have left to bring some kind of hope and relief. But, I just cannot understand how such a deep sense of faith can be held on to, while people go hungry, while babies die, while mother's beg for a Boliviano or two, while you can hear domestic violence across the street, etc.

I left my heart in Cusco!

Well, the trip to Cusco and Machu Picchu was a success, minus getting altitude sickness in the Sacred Valley of the Incas. But, the Peruvian adventure was quite amazing!

The adventure began last Wednesday with a quick flight to La Paz, where we stayed the night. We arrived at the La Paz airport at 7 AM on Thursday morning for our flight to Cusco! The flight was about an hour, but the scenery below was absolutely beautiful--Lake Titicaca and part of the Andes Mountains! Being in Cusco immediately felt like being in another country. The city is very different than any city I have visited in Bolivia.

The driver who picked us up from the airport accidentally took us to the wrong hotel, so we waited with coca mate while someone came to get us and take us to our hotel, Hotel Royal Inca! We showered and got ready and headed to Plaza de Armas, the main plaza, for some lunch. We went to this small, quaint restaurant on the second floor that had an amazing view of the plaza.

At 1:30, we had a tour of the city. We toured the main Cathedral in Plaza de Armas. The Spanish built this church where an important Incan palace once stood before it was destroyed during colonization. There were amazing carvings in the cathedral, and much of the decor was done with 24K gold! The Spanish had a painting done portraying the last supper. The painting portrays daily life in Cusco, but the Spanish insisted Judas wear brown, while all the other disciples wear other colors. Brown is the symbol of the Incas! The Incas always wore brown, and the Spanish did not. Just one way the colonizers tried to dominate and oppress the indigenous.

Next, we visited Qorikancha, which is now the Convent of Santo Domingo. This area used to have temples built by the Incas to worship the fertility gods. However, the Spanish blew the rock walls apart using gun powder and built the Dominican convent. After a huge earthquake in the 1950s, the walls of the convent crumbled to reveal the older walls built by the Incas. Then, we drove up to the hills around the city to see Sacsayhuman, a temple that was built to the god of thunder, Qenqo, temples dedicated to the jaguar and the Pachamama. Human sacrifices took place in the temple dedicated to the Pachamama, and over 30 mummies were found in a ravine behind the altar of sacrifices. Puka Pukara was next! Puka Pukara is a fort that was used to maintain communication with the Machu Picchu region, and to try and fight off the Spanish, who had far superior weaponry. Our last stop of the day was Tambo Machay, a tribute to the water god, who is very important because he fertilizes Pachamama. It is not known where the water comes from that flows from 3 different falls. However, the water has been flowing steadily since the time of the Incas.

Our second day we toured the Sacred Valley of the Incas. It was absolutely beautiful--snow-capped mountains and flowing rivers, green hills and quaint towns. No wonder the Incas chose to live in this area of Peru! Our first stop was the ruins in Pisac. This happened to be the beginning and the end of the Sacred Valley journey for me! I was feeling pretty bad, and ended up throwing up on the ruins...never a good thing. So, I did not get to see much of the valley or the other ruins because I slept in the bus. By the last stop I was feeling better. We hiked up through a small town to see the "most beautiful church in the Sacred Valley." The Spanish destroyed the home of a famous Incan king and built the church on that hill. Only Spanish and noble Incas could enter the church, so the lower classes would sit outside and listen. When we arrived back in Cusco I was so exhausted.

Our last day was the journey to MACHU PICCHU! We got up at 5:45, had a quick breakfast, and took a bus to the train station in Poroy, just outside of Cusco. The train ride to Aguascalientes was about 3 and a half hours, but it was so beautiful! We followed this beautiful river and were surrounded by tall, snow-covered mountians. When we arrived in Aguascalientes, we found our tour guide and headed to catch a bus to the ruins. We entered the area and took a steep path up! When we finally came upon the city it was absolutely breath-taking! We were looking down at the city from above! We saw the terraces that were used for growing corn, the temples to the gods of the sun and the water, and to the condor as well. We saw the famous temple of 3 windows, which represents the 3 worlds--the upper world, this world, and the lower/inner world. Each world is represented by an animal--the condor is the upper, the puma is this world, and the snake represents the lower world. The sacred rock, which marks the entrance to the Huayna Picchu, the famous mountain that has a very important temple at the top and only 400 people can climb this mountain a day, has the same shape as the mountain in the distance. The lower section of the city was houses, workshops, etc, while the upper section was made up of temples and important buildings.

The whole Machu Picchu experience was amazing--to see the work that was put into this city, and realize that no one knows what happened to the inhabitants! I learned so much about the culture and history of the Inca people. It is still alive today because Cusquenas carry on the religious practices, including worshiping Pachamama and other Incan gods. Although I only explored a small portion of Cusco, I feel in love with the city! The people of Cusco today still associate themselves with their Incan ancestors and are proud to have such strong, indigenous roots!

Gracias, Henri Nouwen!

I have been reading Henri Nouwen's Gracias: A Latin American Journal in my spare time this past week. I have been home all week with stomach and back pains...a result of a kidney infection and more parasites! But, I was able to watch the whole first season of House and get into Gracias, which is absolutely amazing!

Henri Nouwen was a Dutch priest, who felt the urge to learn Spanish and work with those of Latin America. He attended Maryknoll's Language Institute in Cochabamba, Bolivia and then worked in Lima, Peru as a missionary. According to Nouwen, our job as missionaries is "to search with the poor for treasure hidden in the ground on which they stand." This was an idea developed by Maryknoll--a "radically new perspective" to missionary and volunteer work. I completely believe I am working here in Bolivia to help the babies and girls of Ninos con Valor find treasure not only in their land and culture, but in themselves. Each child I have gotten to know here has a special gift, a special treasure inside. I see it everyday.

The Dutch priest beautifully describes the irony of "Latin America: impressive wealth and degrading poverty, splendid flowers and dusty broken roads, loving people and cruel torturers, smiling children and soldiers who kill. It is here that we have to hunt for God's treasure." Yes, it is here in Bolivia where I find faith and see the teachings of Jesus. It is not in a huge cathedral or at a prayer group, but in my daily experiences at the two homes, people I see on the street, and grassroots movements I hear about. Bolivia is a place where desperation and poverty and helplessness are constantly in your face, yet it is also a place of hope and incredible beauty!

I could quote many things from Fr. Nouwen's book. Every page contains an important lesson that not only pertains to live in Latin America, but about how we can help others and help ourselves!

The Infamous Pyjamada!

Last Friday, Clare, a fellow volunteer, and I planned a pyjamada for the girls! We decorated the house with balloons and streamers, and set up a floor of mattresses to watch movies all night and a dance floor on the second floor! Although I think Clare and I had more fun dancing than the girls, the pyjamada was a hit!

We started the night dancing to the girls favorite artists--Jonas Brothers and Lady Gaga, Miley Cyrus ans Selena Gomez, Rhianna and Justin Beiber! The littler girls had a lot more fun on the dance floor than the older girls. After some dancing, we watched Camp Rock 2, which the girls have been dying to watch! A DVD of current, popular music videos was the next on the list. And, finally, we ended our night with some Karaoke! Yes, the girls love karaoke and had a blast singing to High School Musical songs and other pop artists from Latin America!

I am so fortunate to have this opportunity to work with these girls! Each girl is absolutely amazing! I will never forgot the special moments I share with them, like the pyjamada! They have truly made my life in Bolivia complete!

This week I am traveling with the volunteers and directors of Ninos con Valor to the region of Miaque in the department of Cochabamba. We will be renovating a daycare in a small town with very few residents and no running water or electricity! I am excited to meet the families we will be helping, and working with the kids and teachers in the daycare! Also, I am excited to see another part of Bolivia!

I miss everyone so much! Sending all my love!

The Uyunian Adventure!

Finding words to describe the beauty and the isolation, the vastness and the pureness of Salar de Uyuni and the surrounding area seems impossible. I only hope this part of Bolivia remains untouched because it is truly spectacular!

We began our trip at Café Paris in Cochabamba’s main plaza! The first leg of our journey was a 5 hour bus trip from the bus terminal in Cochabamba to a random street in Oruro. We thought we had 20minutes to find our bus to Uyuni, which seemed like an impossible feat. We asked everyone we saw where the bus left from, and everyone gave us a different answer. We were literally running around the streets of Oruro at 11:30 at night to find our bus. Miraculously, a woman heard us panicking and frantic, and told us to knock on the bus company’s closed, locked door. Sure enough, we were in the right place, and the bus did not leave until 1 AM. So, the workers of Todo Turismo were nice enough to let us sit in their office until our bus arrived.

We boarded our sleeper bus at 1:15 AM and tried to sleep through the night, but a bumpy road will sure prohibit any sound sleeping. We arrived in Uyuni around 8:30 AM, and it was absolutely freezing! We dropped our luggage at the tour office and found a quick breakfast. We had time for a little shopping, which I loved! The town of Uyuni seems so quaint and cute! I wish we had more time to explore, but the adventures that laid ahead were far beyond what I imagined!

Around 10:30 AM we piled into our Toyota Land Cruiser 4-wheel-drive and headed off on our adventure! Oscar, our driver and tour guide, and Rosemary, our cook, were so amazing throughout the entire weekend! Oscar let Caroline and I name his car! We decided that Panchito was a fitting name! Our first stop was the Train Cemetery. This is a huge tourist attraction, but I found it not nearly as interesting as what we were about to experience! We spent about ten minutes climbing on trains and taking pictures! Our next stop was SALAR DE UYUNI, the world’s largest salt flat! It is 12,106 square kilometers and is over 12,00 feet. The Salar is a center of salt extraction—about 20,000 tons per year! Salar de Uyuni is truly magical—it is just the white ground, the blue sky with amazing clouds, and you! We walked around in awe for a while, snapping pictures and playing in the salt mounds. We then visited Cactus Island (Icawanku), which is located in the middle of the salt lake! The island is covered in tons of cacti, and we even spotted some llamas! Rosemary prepared our lunch here on the island. We enjoyed llama meat and vegetables as we still we in shock and awe that we were actually on Salar de Uyuni! Our next stop was Galaxia, a cave that used to be under the sea and is about 2200 years old. It was beautiful, and you could see the leaves that were fossilized into the top and bottom of the cave. Next to Galaxia was the Devil’s Cemetery—a pre-Incan burial ground. There were actual skulls and bones in the small holes made by the founders. After a full day of activities and very little sleep, we headed to our “hotel” in the small town of San Pedro. It was very basic—only electricity at night, concrete floors and beds, no heat, etc. But, I survived!

We began our second day with a huge breakfast courtesy of Rosemary! We ate, got ready, and packed up the car. Our first stop was miles and miles of volcanic rock formations, which went on as far as the eye could see. The formations were not that big, but very intricate and fascinating. Next were the mountains of color, which were layered with all different shades! Near the mountains of color, Oscar showed us an active volcano that straddles the border of Chile and Bolivia! We were so close to Chile! Our next two stops were two different lagoons, which were both amazingly beautiful and serene. Thousands of flamingos lived in both lagoons. We had another amazing lunch at the second lagoon. After lunch, we drove a while to the huge rock formations, which included the infamous Tree of Rock! Our last stop for the day was Lagoon Colorado, which literally has red water! It was so cold and windy that we could not spend much time outside of the car! Our hotel for the second night was a little nicer than the first, but still very basic and VERY, VERY, VERY, VERY COLD! We met some fellow travelers from Argentina and Spain and ended up playing dice games with them!

Our last day in Uyuni was insanely busy! We got up at 5 AM to head to the hot, thermal bath, which turned out to be lukewarm and it was way too cold to even think about taking my two shirts, three jackets, gloves, hat, and scarf off. The geysers, however, were amazing! The sun was just rising and it was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen! Our very last stop on the tour was the Green Lagoon. The water was definitely green, but no wildlife can live in this water because of its high levels of toxins and minerals. After the lagoon, we began our 8 hour drive back to the city of Uyuni with a few stops along the way—Dali Rocks, a few small towns, lunch, and more crazy rock formations!

Around 6 PM we pulled into downtown Uyuni. We grabbed a quick dinner and headed to the bus station, which was complete mayhem! We arrived in Oruro around 2:30, and a lady traveling with us was so sick because of the drastic change in altitude, the bus company helped us get a private cab back to Cochabamba!

After three days of no shower, the first thing I did was shower when I got back to our house! It was an amazing few days of seeing and experiencing things so unreal! I will never forget the natural, untouched, simple beauty of Uyuni! Also, I traveled with 5 other women—4 of then over 40 and one the same age as me—and it was so fun! We have all come from very different backgrounds and we are all at different places in live, but we got along so well and had so much fun!

I have had such amazing experiences in Bolivia, and am so thankful each day that I have had the opportunity to travel and get to know this amazing country and its amazing people!

Noche Sin Techo! (and other updates)

Last Friday, September 3rd, 5 of the older girls from Corazon del Pastor, some staff and volunteers from Ninos con Valor participated in Noche Sin Techo. This event was planned by Mosoj Yan (Camino Nuevo or New Road), an organization here in Cochabamba that works to get kids and teenagers off the street. A few times during college, my friends and I participated in the Invisible Children sleep outs. So, I was expecting something similar--a somber occasion where we watch movies and talk in small groups, etc. However, as much as I enjoyed spending time with the girls and attempting to be in solidarity and support those who sleep on the streets, Noche Sin Techo was something far from my expectations.

Instead of talking about the reality of life on the street for kids, and instead of watching a documentary about street kids, and instead of suggesting ways in which we can assist these kids, there were comedy routines and dancers, singers and musicians who lighted the mood. It seemed like a celebration more than a movement of solidarity and support. Many of the participants seemed to believe this was a camp out or a fun night. Also, the entertainment never mentioned the reality that tons of children and teenagers are abandoned and runaway, live on the streets and sniff glue, steal for a simple meal.

I was discussing my feelings about the night with one of the other tias who attended and she agreed. She also told me that many kids sleep in the plaza we slept in every night. So, these kids were kicked out of the plaza so we could show our support? That just doesn't seem supportive and helpful to me! I do understand that Mosoj Yan wanted the participants to be safe, however, kicking "street kids" out of a usual place they sleep is not a way to show support and solidarity. This tia also told me that the same cops that were there to protect us from any danger mistreat "street kids" all the time. They will round them up, take them up to into the hills above Cochabamba, make the kids wash their cars, and then leave them up there to walk back to the city in the middle of the night by themselves. Others will be beaten by police officers, and sometimes shipped to other parts of Bolivia to big buildings where rapes and violence are common. It is funny to me that none of this was mentioned during the evening.

I think it is wonderful for the girls to participate in activities like this. The five girls who came chose to attend. But, it would have been even better for them to really see the reality of "street kids." However, I was proud to work with an organization and with girls who are willing to put aside comfort to spend a night in the cold, sleeping on the ground to show support for kids, just like them! Many of the girls at Corazon del Pastor could be living on the streets, but have a roof and food, love and support because of Ninos con Valor.

Other news from Cochabamba:

*This weekend I am heading to Solar de Uyuni, one of the biggest salt flats in the world! Uyuni is south of Cochabamba. We are taking 2 buses-a total of 18 hours! I am super excited!

*September 14th is the 200th anniversary of Cochabamba! There is no school, and will be huge celebrations!

*September 29th will be the 4 year anniversary of Ninos con Valor! The girls and the babies will be participating--some of the girls will be playing music, some will be dancing, some will be making art projects; the babies will be dancing and singing! I am so excited to see them! Also, the tias, including myself, will be dancing! We will see how this goes!

*September 17th is a dance party and sleepover Clare, another volunteer, and I are planning for the girls! They just cannot wait to dance to Justin Beiber and the Jonas Brothers!

So, things are going well here, minus a few problems with ameobas and bacteria. But, as I keep telling myself, it could be worse! I still cannot believe it is September! I wish I could slow time down! I am very excited to head home, but I really cannot imagine leaving the girls and babies behind! But, I can always come back!

I hope this post finds everyone well back in the states! As usual, I am sending all my love!

The Chapare: Quite the Jungle

Last Friday, I traveled with a group of Maryknoll students and volunteers to the Chapare, a region in the department of Cochabamba. The Chapare is much different than the city of Cochabamba! It is very jungly, hot and humid, and the people who reside there live much differently. As we bused east towards the Chapare, it was crazy to me that we were so close to the city I am currently living in, but literally worlds away. The houses in the Chapare are made of banana leaves, small wood slats, adode, or bricks. Most homes had no doors and windows, and many have no running water or electricity. And, the towns there are very small and quaint. The roads are dirt and rocks. So, coming from the city of Cochabamba was an experience!

Saturday morning we went to visit Don Vicente and his land. Don Vicente was born in the most southern part of Bolivia, near the border with Argentina. When Vicente was a teenager, his family moved to the Chapare in search of a better life. When they arrived in the Chapare, they purchased a piece of land to cultivate and make a living from. They government told the family they could grown anything on their land, but coca. Coca, which has such an important cultural, social, and medicinal purpose to the indigenous of Bolivia, could not be grown. But, over the years, laws were changed, and coca can now be grown in the Chapare. Don Vicente is a very humble, hard-working man. He cultivates and grows coca, rubber trees, heart of palm, and cacoa. The process of cultivating his crops is hard work, and he only makes enough to get by. He lives in a small house made of adobe with his family, which is quite a distance from his land. He told us all about the attempted eradication of coca in the Chapare by corrupt presidents with help from the United States, and the constant battle with the coca leaf. Don Vicente explained that some coca farmers do divert some of their crop to cocaine production, but he does not because of the sacredness of the leaf and the strict laws against the production of the drug. President Evo Morales has recently made the laws against cocaine much more strict!

Next, we visited UMOFAR, the police unit that fights cocaine production and transportation. The officer touring us around, explained that unlike Colombia, cocaine production in Bolivia is done by families, not cartels. So, cocaine is produced on a much smaller scale, usually, and it is harder to catch shut down the labs and catch people transporting the drug. The production of cocaine has spread to poor communities in Santa Cruz and El Alto above La Paz. For many families, the production of cocaine is their only source of income. The Bolivian government is working to stop the production of cocaine, and put more focus on the organic growing of coca.

On Sunday we went to Parque Nacional Carrasco, a protected portion of the jungle! It was one of my favorite activities of the weekend! In the city, we are constantly surrounded by cars and buses, buildings and chaos, but in the middle of the jungle there is serenity and peacefulness. We went on a three hour hike covering only a small portion of the Parque. We say so many different trees and plants, birds, and even bats!

Overall, my weekend in the Chapare was absolutely amazing! I could have done without the millions of bugs and horrible humidity, but it was all part of the experience! A huge cockroach scurried down the bathroom wall one night and I found a frog in the shower. So, I was definitely in touch with nature!

Work is going so well! I have really gotten to know the kids and the tias I work with well! I cannot even think about leaving in December! These kids have been such an important part of my life for the last three months. But, there is still so much more to come and so much to look forward to!

Religion...

This week has been pretty busy--saying goodbye to Mom and Dad, a really fun birthday party, work, and singing practice. Yes, singing practice! Tim, my new roommate at the Maryknoll volunteer house, and I are part of the Capilla of Exaltacion's music ministers! We went to practice Saturday night for about 2 hours and went over each song twice. And, this morning we sang at the 10 AM mass. I was really nervous, but it was so fun! I really enjoy singing again! Also, since I have been in Cochabamba, I have become more religious. I do not attend mass regularly, although now that I am singing I will be at mass every Sunday morning. But, I have found a deeper spiritual significance. I believe this new understanding has come from working with the children in the Ninos con Valor organization. They have taught me that no matter what you go through in life, you can always still be positive and loving, happy and grateful, kind and respectful! This is a religion in itself.

Also, while Carol was here, we attended mass in the deep Southern zone. In this part of the south, many of the families are extremely poor and very indigenous. Most of the citizens in this area speak only Quechua, an indigenous language. But, the mass we went to at 7:45 AM was one of the most beautiful masses I have ever been to. The people were all so kind and welcoming, even those who did not speak Spanish. Also, the "church" was a recreation center that is being built. There were a few benches and stools for the parishioners. There were no windows and the floor was dirt and rocks. There was only a cross made out of woos and a small shrine--a few candles, a picture, and some flowers. So, religion does not need to be practiced in multi-million dollar churches and cathedrals. Religion can be practiced anywhere, even in an incomplete building in rocks and dirt!

On a less spiritual level, last Friday was Nora's birthday. Nora is a Franciscan missionary in Cochabamba for three years. She is working with Franciscan International and also helping a Maryknoll priest begin a composting program here. But, we went our dancing and it was so fun! We went to a place called Pancho's close to Plaza Colon and we had a blast! We met people from all over South America and a few guys from Kenya! It really is a small world I am realizing here!

This weekend I will be traveling to the Chapare, an very jungley area of Bolivia! Many Bolivians have told me that the Chapare is the most beautiful place in Bolivia. While there, we will visit a coca farm, some eco-tourist locations, hike, and swim in some rivers and lakes! I am looking forward to seeing the Chapare! I will take lots of pictures!

Here is to a good week!

Oh, the Bolivian Adventure!

Well, I had an amazing time with my parents, and already miss them so much! It felt so surreal that they were in Bolivia with me. My parents got to come to work with me, and they absolutely fell in love with the babies and the girls! They also saw the Cancha, the biggest outdoor market in Latin America, where I buy vegetables and fruit. During our Cancha visit, we bought souvenirs and coca leaves, which my dad was most excited about! And, we even ate a traditional Bolivian meal--choclo con queso (Big corn with cheese)--with a few of the tias I work with! They also met all the Maryknoll members and Alfredo. Alfredo is a wonderful Bolivian man, who has taught many young kids in the Southern Zone his art of woodwork. We visited his workshop, and my parents got to see the products being made by hand, the original drawings. They were very impressed and enjoyed meeting Alfredo! Urkupina, a festival celebrated in Quillacollo, a small town next to Cochabamba, was celebrated the weekend mom and dad were here! On Saturday, August 14th, we went with a group of Maryknollers to the entrada, a parade with traditional dances and music. It was absolutely amazing! I loved the dancing, and I got to see a friend who was dancing the Tinkus. All in all, I had an amazing, fun ten days with my mom and dad!

I tried to show my mom and dad daily life and the culture of Cochabamba. But, I know it was not the restaurants or the shopping or the Cristo de la Concordia or the Urlupina festival that impacted and affected my parents the most--spending time with the girls and babies of Corazon del Pastor and Pedacito del Cielo left a permanent imprint on both their hearts! Both my parents commented that they will miss the kids, even after only meeting them for a few hours! At the baby home they held the kids and got on the ground to play with them!

The young Bolivian children I work with are truly spectacular! Although many of the girls and babies have suffered traumatic pasts, each child possesses so much love and so much kindness. After two months of getting to know the girls and spending time holding the babies, I feel like I am a friend, an older sister to these kids. My time and my presence is my gift to these kids, and after this experience, I think that is one of the best gifts you can give to someone, especially kids looking for affection and love, attention and encouragement. I could not have been assigned to a better organization! Although I have about four months left, I already know I am going to have a very hard time leaving the girls and babies! I have become accustomed to helping the girls cook and do homework, talking and listening to their stories, giving them hugs and kisses when I arrive and when I leave, listening to their problems and trying to find a solution; I have become accustomed to sitting with and holding the babies, getting them ready for nap and for bad, picking them up after they fall.

I really cannot put into words what an incredibly amazing experience this has been so far, and I know there is so much more to come! And, it makes me most happy that my parents got to see me at work, to see where I live, to see what daily life is like, and to meet the wonderful kids who bring such joy to my life everyday.

A Bolivian Reality

My parents arrived this Monday, and it was so exciting to see them! Also, this week, Ninos con Valor is hosting a team from Seattle to help at both homes. So, my parents and I have gotten to participate in a few of the activities.

After going to Immigration and painting flower pots with a few of the girls from Corazon del Pastor and the Seattle team, I met my parents at their hotel! It was so wonderful to be with them again! It made me realize really how much I have been missing our family time! We decided to get dinner, which was quite a chase since many of the restaurants here are closed on Monday. But, we ended up having a delicious dinner. When we got back to their hotel, we talked and caught up!

Tuesday was quite an exciting day for my parents! We went to breakfast at Cafe Paris in the main plaza. They enjoyed the coffee very much! Then, we had our first pharmacy experience! I had to head to the Cancha to pick-up the kids from the Seattle team and take them to lunch, while my parents headed back to their hotel before meeting us. I was running a little late with the kids, and my parents were standing in front of a popular restaurant on a very busy, main street waiting for us. Students were protesting and rioting in the area because the doors of their school had been locked. The police believed it was getting out of hand, and set off tear gas right outside of the restaurant. So, my parents got teargassed during a student riot! My dad made the comment that during all his years of peace marches and protests, he had never been teargassed. I said, "Bienvenidos a Bolivia!"

After a quick lunch, my parents headed to the airport to claim their luggage that was left in Miami by American Airlines, and I headed to a park with some of the girls and the kids from the team. They all really enjoyed themselves, and I enjoyed watching them. I was great to see kids, who do not speak the same language, having a blast playing together and getting along so well!

After the park, I took the girls back home and headed to meet up with my parents. Together, we headed to my home in the zona sur. They got to see the neighborhood and my new house. They also got to meet David, one of the priests who lives in front of us. David, however, had just gotten bitten by a dog, and started the anti-rabies shots. So, they got to meet David in a panicked state and to see how bad the stray dog situation is here. After, we went to dinner at Sole Mio, my favorite restaurant in Cochabamba! They really enjoyed it! While eatting, my mentor, Steve Judd, came into Sole Mio. So, my parents got to meet my wonderful mentor and talk with him. He knows our cousin, Wayman Deasy, who works for Maryknoll! It was exciting to connect on that level! After a delicious dinner, we returned to their hotel for some sleep.

Today was a very emotional day! We started out with a quick breakfast at the hotel, and then headed to Pedacito del Cielo, the baby home. I was so excited that my parents got to meet the babies and play with them for a little bit. They fell in love with the kids! The kids at Pedacito really took a liking to both my mom and dad! My mom played ball with a few of the little girls and one of the little boys ran into the room and jumped on my dad. It was great to see my parents with the kids!

After a while at the baby home, we headed to the north of Cochabamba. We were going on a "Reality Tour," to see how people are living, to figure out how we can help, and to put things into perspective. Our first stop was at a small house up on the mountain. A grandmother lived there with five grandchildren who were left with her after their mother and father died. Abuelita is very old, and can hardly walk anymore, and only speaks Quechua. We went and visited this family to see how they live and what the reality of their life is. Abuelita and her grandchildren are beautiful! The team brought down some school supplies, toys, and shoes for the grandchildren of Abuelita, and the kids were so appreciative! Abuelita's family was so kind. We ate saltenas and talked with them, while a doctor, who came with us, examined abuelita to see why she is losing mobility. This was a wonderful opportunity to meet this family, but to also see how many people in Bolivia are living.

Our next stop was with a family of seven who live in a tiny room, which is about the size of my room at home. This family lives on the land of another, more wealthy family. The mom takes care of the house and the yard of the more wealthy family. The family we met, however, cannot plant anything in the yard. Planting vegetables and fruits would assist the family greatly, but they cannot plant anything, according to the family who owns the land. Although this family is incredibly poor, they seem very kind and generous. This family really touched me! The mom was extremely grateful for all the food that was brought for lunch and for all the school supplies and toys that were brought for her children. She is a beautiful lady who is raising four boys and one girl in one room, with no bathroom and no shower. It was so humbling to talk with her and get to know the children. She even invited us back to her house for her daughter's birthday in September! My dad was so touched by this family that he gave the mom some bolivianos to help she and her family. My dad embraced the mom and gave her a little money, and tears welled up in both their eyes. It was quite an emotional moment to watch!

Our last stop was Puntiti, a home and school for children with severe mental and physical disabilities. Many of the children here are not mobile, and spend their days in wheelchairs. There are kids as young as one and as old as thirty because there is not home equivalent for adults here in Bolivia. It was so hard walking through the home and seeing these kids. However, the nuns and caretakers at Puntiti give so much love and attention to these kids. Many of the kids who attend the school go home to families at the end of the day. I really enjoyed talking with the kids in the school. There was a Montessori room for the younger kids, and I really lived talking with the kids in this room. Some of the kids in the school are in the "integration" program, which helps them get ready to be in other public and private schools. And, the kids in the school make jewelry and cards that they sell. The profits go towards taking care of the kids at the home and school! My mom and dad were touched by the kids at Puntiti. Although they do not know Spanish, they attempted to communicate with all the kids.

All three places were quite an emotional, humbling experience. I will never forget Abuelita and her family, the family of seven living in a tiny room, and all the babies, kids, teenagers, and adults at Puntiti.

After a long, emotionally draining day, we went to dinner, and ended the day with a cup of mate de coca. The mate was especially enjoyed by my dad! I couldn't be more happy that my parents are here! They are the most supportive parents, and I would not be working here in Bolivia without all their love and support. I am excited to explore Cochabamba with my parents, and create Bolivian memories with them!

Angela!

The first few days of living in the volunteer house have been quite an adventure! But, I have survived and it has kept things interesting. First it was the shower, which now seems to be fixed! Thank goodness! And tonight, the power went out right after I made my dinner. So, I had to eat in the dark by candlelight. Thankfully, the power was not off for too long, and Evan and Sue called to make sure I was okay. Again, I am so lucky to be part of the wonderful, caring Maryknoll community.

Commuting to work has not been bad. Because of the parades celebrating Bolivian independence, getting to work on Thursday and Friday was difficult and time consuming. I do enjoy the bus rides. I have met quite a few very nice people while waiting for buses and riding the buses.

Elaina, a nurse doing her practical at the baby home, has been helping me with my Spanish. In exchange, I am helping her with English. She is extremely nice, and even invited me to eat Pique, a traditional Bolivian dish, with her.

So, things are going well. Just getting used to living outside the city, but enjoying it. I have been cooking everyday, and have made some very good meals. If anyone has easy recipes that require few ingredients and little time, please feel free to send them along!

Recently, I have grown very close to a few of the older girls at the girls' home. Angela is one of these girls. She is so talented artistically, and asks me to save boxes and magazines, newspapers and plastic bottles for her to transform into art. During her vacation, Angela took a class that focused on making art out of materials that are usually thrown away and disregarded. It was a perfect fit for her, considering she gets in trouble for going through the garbage and recycling. Angela really thrived in this class. She was the youngest in the class, but progressed rapidly. After showing her projects she completed, many of the girls expressed interest in learning how to make the vases and boxes she constructed from magazines and newspapers. I have encouraged her to hold an art class for the girls and I!

Angela is a quieter girl. She enjoys doing her art and reading. I love spending time and talking with her. She is very interesting and loves to ask questions about life in the United States. When I told the girls I was moving to another house, she was one of the first to come up and ask why and tell me she was going to miss me.

Although I am really enjoying living in the volunteer house, I miss the girls! I miss having them come into my room at night. We would talk and eat chocolate! But, I still get to see them almost everyday. And, maybe the space between us will bring a new appreciation and love for each other!

Oh, what a day!

Yesterday, I moved into the Maryknoll volunteer house in the southern zone. I spent a good portion of the day unpacking and organizing everything. On August 15th, Tim, another volunteer, will arrive in Cochabamba and become my roommate. It will not only be nice to live with another person who is going through similar experiences--living away from home, volunteering, trying to learn a new culture and way of life, living in another language, etc--but also living in close proximity to the other Maryknoll lay missioners! Sue, Evan, and their 2 daughters, Lauren, Jason, and Steve all live very close to our house!

This morning, my first day living at the volunteer house, was quite an advanture! I got up and got everything ready to take a shower. I got in the shower and could not figure out why it was so hot! After a little while, i heard these weird noises and looked up to find smoke. The shower heads here in Bolivia are plastic, and have coils inside that boil the water so it is hot. If there is not enough water pressure, the coils make the water extremely hot, and it can short out the shower head. So, apparently, this morning there was not enough water pressure, and the shower head shorted out and melted. It was quite a scary experience! I thought the house was going to burn down! I shut off the water and called Dan, my program director immediately. He told me what happened and told me to call Evan, a fellow lay missioner. Evan told me that if I bought a new shower head he could help me fix it! And, he told me to call his wife, Sue, so I shower at their house. So, I walked to Evan and Sue´s house--they live very close, and showered there. Then, I headed into the city to buy a shower head and go to work. It was my first time buying a shower head. Thank goodness Evan told me the kind to get and the price. Just buying the shower head was an interesting experience!

After I bought the shower head, I was heading to the baby home and I ran into a few of the older girls and one of the tias. Tomorrow is Bolivian Independence day, which is a huge holiday here! So, today the different schools participated in a march down one of the main streets here in Cochabamba. A few of the older girls were marching in the parade, and the other girls went to see them and support them! It was great to see the girls, and each one asked how my first night was away from the home. I told them it was good, but I missed the girls a lot! They said they missed me a lot too. We had to part ways because I had to find a bus to take to Pedacito.

When I got to Pedacito there was a birthday celebration, and a few of the younger girls were there to help celebrate! The celebration was held at the site where Pedacito will be moving to soon! It is an absolutely beautiful house with a huge yard where the kids will have a blast playing! We ate cake and had a pinata and played some games with the kids. After, the babies went back to the current site of Pedacito and the girls headed to their house. It was a normal day from there. I played outside with the Pedacito kids, then we got ready for lunch, ate lunch, and got ready to take naps.

So, after the shower incident, the day really turned around when I saw the girls and went to the birthday celebration and spent time with the kids! Also, I realized what a great community Maryknoll is, and how lucky I am to be a part of the Maryknoll community here in Cochabamba! Evan and Sue were both so nice and helpful! it is really great to have wonderful people around to help and support me while I am here!

More adventures to come! Bolivian Independence day is tomorrow, and I am going out to celebrate with a few of the girls I know here. And, my parents are coming so soon! I cannot wait to see them!

In Other News...

Well, Carol, my fellow Maryknoll volunteer left today for 2 days in La Paz, and then she is flying back to Minnesota! I will miss Carol tons and tons! We explored Cochabamba together, and became regular food critics in this city. Also, when I lost my debit card, Carol and her husband helped me out! Carol was an amazing friend to me, and I have nothing but wonderful memories with her. I know she will be missed here in Bolivia, but I know her work with kids and adults and her family are waiting! Safe travels, Carol! And, I hope you enjoy La Paz and an amazing shower when you get back to the states!

Today, in Cochabamba, there is a huge strike of public transportation workers. I love to see people take things into their own hands, but trying to get to and from work has not been fun. The bus and taxi-trufi drivers are upset because people who are not authorized taxi-trufis and buses are taking business from them. So, the drivers have set up blockades on many major streets demonstrating their anger and frustration. This will be going on through tomorrow at least. So, we will see how this all progresses.

Today at the baby home we had Anticuchos, beef heart, which is a very traditonal dish here in South America! I am glad I tried it! Carol told me that when she studied in Peru she loved anticuchos and when she was heading home she wanted to get the recipe and found out just what anticuchos were. But, it was an experience and I am glad I was introduced to them in a safe setting.

Speaking of eating traditional Bolivian food, I had Silpancho the other night at Tunari, a very well-known restaurant here in Cochabamba. They serve very traditional dishes, including ox tail, tongue, tripe, kidneys. But, I stuck with Silpancho--beef on top of potatoes and rice and topped with tomatoes, onions, peppers, and a fried egg. (I gave my egg to another volunteer.) And, this weekend I am going with one of the tias to get Soap de Mani (Peanut soup), a very popular dish here, and fried llama meat. I am a little nervous, but it is an experience! I am eating things here I never thought I would eat! Mom and Dad, you would be proud!

I just received my address book in the mail from my parents. I forgot to pack it, and it took over a month for the package they sent me to get to Bolivia. So, I will be sending postcards out soon!

In other news, I will be moving out of the girls' home and into the volunteer house in the southern zone this Wednesday. Tim, another short-term Maryknoll volunteer, will be arriving in Cochabamba on August 15th. Tim and I will be living together in the volunteer house until he leaves in November. I will really miss living with the girls. I enjoy seeing them every morning and night, and giving them good night kisses and hugs. I will miss the girls screaming and laughing and knocking on the door every few minutes for something, but I know I will be able to sleep in at the new house! And, I will miss the tias! The tias are wonderful, and when I was sick they took very good care of me. And, when I had the biggest spider I have ever seen in my room, Tia Maritza came in and took care of it! I will miss living at Corazon del Pastor, but I am looking forward to having a space of my own and experiencing a new part of Cochabamba. I am excited to cook for myself, something I never thought I would say! So, if you have good, easy recipes please send them to me! And, living in the Southern Zone will be a completely new experience. The Southern Zone is a poorer area with more people who speak Quechua and Aymara. So, I am looking forward to getting to the know the barrio and the neighbors. Majority of the Maryknoll Lay Missioners live in the south, so it will be nice to live near people who are going through a similar experience.

My continuation of the list of things I learned in Bolivia will be coming soon! I hope everyone is doing well, and not a day goes by that I do not think of everyone I miss and love!

Things I learned from my time in Boliva!

I cannot believe I have been in Bolivia almost two months! It really is crazy! I am enjoying everyday, and feel like a new lesson is learned every minute. Carol, a fellow volunteer, has inspired me to keep a list of things I learned in Bolivia! So here are a few very important lessons I have learned!

1. Napkins are a waste! Here in Bolivia, you will usually not receive a napkin with your meal because they are expensive. If you are lucky enough to get a napkin, each person only gets one. This does help with a waste problem! Some places, like the Maryknoll Volunteer House, use towels to cut down on waste and expenses.

2. Water should be used sparingly! The first day I moved into the girls´ home, the Tias reminded me that water is not easy to come by here, that it is expensive, and needs to be used sparingly. So, I turn the water off while shampooing and conditioning my hair, while I am brushing my teeth, and while I am sponging dirty dishes. There was a huge "water war" in Bolivia, and those difficult times are still present in people´s minds. Many Bolivians did not have water during the "water war" because they could not afford it. So, water is definitely not wasted, and is seem as a treasure.

3. Food should never be wasted! Even if there is a little of my yogurt left from breakfast, the tias will not throw it out. Someone will eat it. Carol and I were discussing that many people probably realize that a lot of people within Bolivia do not have food, so what food one has must be used and not wasted. The girls and babies must eat everyting they are given to ensure that no food is being wasted.

4. Handmade cards are the way to go! This lesson for me is difficult because I am horrible at art. But, for any special occasion, including birthdays, Christmas, and Friendship day, which just passed, the girls will make cards. And, they are absolutely beautiful! Cards are extremely expensive here, so the best way to celebrate something is to make a card. I will try my best to continue this tradition when I return home!

5. Hugs and kisses are always appreciated! The girls and babies at the homes cannot get enough hugs and kisses! So, I try and give them as much love as possible. The babies love when you kiss their hands and blow on their tummies, just like my mom and dad used to do to me! And, the girls will lay their heads on your arm or back. I will never take the hugs and kisses I receive for granted anymore!

There are tons more lessons I have leraned, but I have to head to work soon. More than learning lessons, I think I have learned to not take what I have and what I receive for granted--running water, electricity, food, and hugs and kisses, especially. More to come from my list of Bolivian lessons!

I miss everyone...A LOT! Sending lots and lots of love!

La Paz: So modern, yet deeply indigenous!

On Sunday night when the students from Maryknoll flew back to Cochabamba, I stayed in La Paz at the Maryknoll house. I was able to get a few extra days off so I could explore the highest capital city in the world! And, it was worth it! It was a little strange traveling alone, but it was still an amazing time.

I did not get back into the city of La Paz until late on Sunday night. But, the ladies at the Maryknoll house had dinner waiting for me. Delicious chicken, vegetables, and potatoes. I wrote in my journal and got to talk with my mom and dad.

Monday morning I got up and got ready for my first day of exploring La Paz! I started at Plaza San Francisco, where there is an extremely beautiful church dedicated to Saint Francis. The main shopping district is in this area, and I walked around for a while looking at what was available to buy, and taking pictures. Calle Linares and Calle Sagarana are the main streets that have tons of places to buy traditional Bolivian goods--alpaca sweaters, traditional jewelry, music, instruments of the Andes, statues, textiles, etc. So I spent a good portion of the morning picking out souvenirs for family, friends, and myself.

The Cocoa Museum is also on Calle Linares. So, I went to the Museum to find out more about the leaf that is essential to the culture of the Andes, but is shunned by the United States. I did learn a lot about how Cocoa came to be and its cultural uses. Researchers have found traces of cocoa being chewed in skulls that are pre-Incan! Also, it has medicinal uses that have been practiced since the Incas. Interestingly, an American decided that majority of the people who lived in the Andean region were poor because of the function of cocoa in their culture. So, the UN decided to eradicate the cultivation of cocoa. The U.S. funded this, and assisted President Banzer, Bolivia's most violent dictator, with destroying cocoa fields throughout Bolivia. However, during this time, Coca-Cola was using cocoa flavoring to make the popular soft drink, so some cocoa production was continued just for the Coca-cola company. There were many more interesting facts about cocoa that should be read about before people jump to conclusions about the infamous leaf. Upstairs, there is a cafe to try food made with cocoa and a variety of cocoa drinks--cocoa iced tea, cocoa liquor, cocoa coffee, etc. I had the cocoa iced tea and a small shot of the cocoa liquor. They were both very good!

After the Cocoa Museum, I had lunch at Luna's Cafe in Calle Sagarana. I heard English, German, Spanish, Portuguese, and Japanese while eating lunch! There are literally people from all over the world who have come to visit La Paz! After lunch, I journeyed to the Witches' Market. The Witches' Market is a very traditional, indigenous market that sells everything from llama terds to llama fetuses, small statues to magical powders that one can use to ward off evil spirits, or bring luck, or protect. It was very interesting because many of the shop owners in the market will not sell to "gringos."

After wandering around for most of the day, I headed back to the main street, the Prado, and got a taxi back to the Maryknoll House. I had dinner with the women who work at the house and then did some reading and got to sleep early.

Tuesday was quite an exciting day! I slept in a little and got ready for a jam-packed day. It was my last full day in La Paz, and I wanted to see everything that I could. My first stop was Plaza Eduardo, where I took pictures and then found a quaint coffee shop, Alexander Coffee, to sit and plan my day. I had fresh-squeezed orange juice and a fresh baked empanada. After a quick break, I walked up towards the Prado, and cut down streets whenever something looked interesting. I ended up at Plaza Estudiante, which is surrounded by schools and Universities, so it was pretty chaotic. I stopped and had a snack at Ciudad Cafe at the very beginning of the Prado.

After, I started walking up the Prado, and stopped at Basilica Maria Auxiliadora. This chapel was one of the most amazing chapels I have ever seen! It was very simple, but had a beautiful, but simple mural of colors behind the altar. After a quick stop in the chapel, I went to the Modern Art Museum, which houses beautiful artwork, majority of which is by Bolivian Artists. My favorite works of art were by Eusebio Victor Choque Quispe, a local artist from La Paz. His paintings reflected the beauty of La Paz and the indigenous culture that envelops the capital city.

Then, I walked up the Prado trying to find a store that sold maps of La Paz. But, I got very lost. I had to stop at a cafe and sit down with a map and figure out where I was. I was close to Plaza Murillo and the Presidential Palace, so I headed there. Plaza Murillo is surrounded by the Presidential Palace, governmental offices, and the Main Cathedral. There were tons of people sitting in the plaza talking and feeding the pigeons. In the center of the plaza is a huge statue dedicated to La Paz.

I tried to go into the Cathedral, but soldiers were at the entrance not letting anyone in. So, I decided to walk around the plaza and take pictures. I saw a bunch of police cars sitting outside the Presidential Palace, and I decided to stay for a little bit to see what was happening. All of a sudden, two SUVs with tinted windows pull up and out walks President Evo Morales! The guards around him quickly got the President in one of the cars and the pulled off. I did not even have time to get my camera out! But, it was so exciting! After the President spotting, I sat on the steps of the Cathedral for a little bit, and then found the most amazing book store. I found a great map of La Paz, and a book entitled Libres! about women who suffered under Dictator Banzer. It is written in Spanish and I have been reading it. It is very interesting, but very heartbreaking. However, I am proud that I am reading a book that is written in Spanish and understanding majority of it!

After, I took a taxi to El Alto, the city above La Paz. I sat right on the rim overlooking La Paz and Illimani, the tall mountain in front of the city. It was absolutely breathtaking! I decided to be brave and take a taxi-trufi back down into the city, which was a great idea! I met locals and I feel like taking public transportation in Bolivia is really a great way to get to know the culture and the people. I went back to Calle Linares and Calle Sagarana to buy a few things I had forgotten the day before, and I visited the church of Saint Francis. Then, I went back towards Plaza Eduardo to get dinner. After a long, exciting day in La Paz, I headed back to the Maryknoll House very happy!

I had to leave Wednesday, so I slept in and got ready slowly. The ladies at the house had lunch ready for me early, and Willie took me to the airport. Driving to the airport, I realized that La Paz truly is a very magical city, and probably one of my most favorite cities I have ever visited! It is very modern and metropolitan, yet the indigenous culture, history, and traditions are still very alive.

I got back to Cochabamba around 3:30, and I was so happy to land because I have never been on a flight with so much turbulence! I unpacked and visited with the girls for a little bit. Then, I went to dinner with Carol at Casa de Campo, a restaurant that serves traditional Bolivian dishes. We had a great dinner, and I told her all about La Paz since she will be venturing there soon!

Since I have been back, I have been working at both homes. I really did miss the girls and the babies a lot, but I do miss La Paz! There is just something about La Paz that draws you in, and holds you close.

On Friday, Carol and I went deep into the Southern Zone, the very poor part of Cochabamba to visit Alfredo Murillo. Alfredo is a woodcarver, and he taught young men and women his unique trade. He now has a huge workshop in the south. Alfredo gave Carol and I a tour and showed us exactly how the process is completed. I got pictures, and will post them soon. These men and women have to cut these tiny, precise pieces of wood and make scenes. It is absolutely amazing! I bought a few things from Alfredo, and I hope to go back with mom and dad when they come down!

More to come this week! I miss everyone, and think about you all everyday! Sending my love!

Adventure Lake Titicaca: waves, sleet, and a lack of oxygen!

The days leading up to my excursion to Lake Titicaca and La Paz seemed to go by slowly because I was so looking forward to this trip! And, it definitely has been worth it!

On Friday morning I had to work at the baby home. I got up to take a shower, and just as I was about to put shampoo in my hair, the water tank ran out of water. So, the house was out of water for the day. So, the day started off weirdly. But, Pedacito was just as fun, but I do admit I was watching the clock more than usual, waiting for the time to leave and head to the airport. I had a little time before I had to be at the airport, so I helped the girls with their homework for a little while. When it was time to leave I felt so guilty! The girls told me they were not going to let me leave. I had to give each of them about 5 kisses and hugs, and I had to promise I was coming back. I really felt like I was abandoning them. It was a hard because I had been really looking forward to this trip, but felt horrible about leaving the girls.

All the travelers met at the Maryknoll Center at 5:30 to get cabs to the airport. two of the boys that rode in my cab were very sick. One had just gotten lab results back that explained all the different bacterias and ameobas he has in his system, and the other guy had been up the night before throwing up from somethng he ate. So, that was a fun taxi ride!

We landed in La Paz, the highest capital city in the world, around 8, and Willie, our driver for the weekend, met us at the airport. The airport is in El Alto, the area above La Paz. The city of La Paz is a huge bowl. Many people have flocked to the city to try and make a living. So, the city of La Paz now stretches up into the hills, with houses built right into the hills. El Alto, which began as part of La Paz, is now considered a city of its own because it is so populated, but extremely poor! The views from El Alto and driving into the bowl that is La Paz were incredible, especially at night! It was just amazing. Another girl that was on the trip is from Marin, and we both agreed that La Paz reminded us so much of San Francisco.

When we arrived at the MAryknoll Center in La Paz, where we were going to stay that night, a huge, delicious dinner was waiting for us--grilled chicken, potatoes, salad, broccoli, bread... Also, because of the extremely high altitude, the table was filled with cocoa leaves to chew and cocoa mate to drink. We ate all together, and then headed to bed because Willie was picking us up at 6 AM to head to Lake Titicaca!

The altitude is no joke! I had a horrible headache and stomach ache for most of the night and the next morning. I was drinking cocoa tea, coca-cola, and chewed cocoa leaves, and I think that combination helped! But, it is extremely hard to walk up hills because your lungs feel like they are going to collapse, and your muscles hurt from a lack of oxygen.

The drive to Copacabana and Lake Titicaca was amazing! When we fianlly got to see the Lake there was a huge rainbow over it! It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen! During the drive, it was sleeting, hailing, and even began to snow! In order to get to Copacabana, we had cross to the other side of the lake. Our minibus was put on a barge and taken across the lake, while we rode in a very small boat. The weather was not good because of the wind and rain and hail. But, we survived!

After about 3.5-4 hours of driving, we fianlly made it to Copacabana. It was so gloomy, windy, and rainy! We planned to take a boat to Isla del Sol that day. We had a wait for about an hour because the conditions on the lake were dangerous. But, they gave us the okay, and we headed to the dock. The 3 hour boat ride to the northern part of Isla del Sol was one of the scariest times in my life! The waves were higher than the boat´s windows, and we all thought we were going to sink! However, miraculously, we survived this crazy boat ride.

When we got to the island, we decided to hike to the ruins, which we were told was a very easy 30 minute round-trip walk. It was a hike! We climbed up and up and up, and the altitude made it so hard to breathe. Lake Titicaca is over 14,000 feet, so everyone was exhausted and having trouble breathing! But, the views were incredible and made the intense hike worth it!

At the ruins, the indigenous people who were ancestors of those who built the ruins, set fire to businesses that were built there without the consent and to their disapproval. It was a very interesting time to be up there, and see the politics involved. Many of the people there did not speak Spanish, but spoke Aymara.

A tour guide gave us a short tour of the ruins, and showed us where mummies were kept, where the temple to worship was, and where sacred water to heal people had been found and used. The water was still there, so we got on our hands and knees, and crawled into this tiny cave to place water on our foreheads, just as the indigenous people used to do.

We stopped at the south end of Isla del Sol, and climbed all the way to the top of this mountian where a small community had been built. Even Lonley Planet recommended places to stay and eat way at the top! It was amazing, but again, it was a hard hike because it was stairs all the way up! By the time we started heading home, it was getting dark and the conditions on the water were much more dangerous than before. So, the captain decided to stop at the tip of land, and the hotel bus had to come pick us up! I am glad he decided to stop because it was definitely getting scary! And, the boat had no lights, and no radio. We took this narrow, dirt road back to Copacabana, which was a little scary at night.

When we got back to the hotel everyone was starving, so we split up to go to dinner. Scott, Alli, Jacob, Dan, and I ended up going to La Pasto, a quaint Italian food restaurant run by very hip people. Dinner was great! After dinner we all went to bed after a long day of hiking in the rain and sleet trying to fight the altitude.

Sunday was a much more relaxed day in Copacabana! We had breakfast at the hotel, went to mass at the cathedral in town, and shopped for a little bit. The cathedral in Copacabana is famous for car blessings. The roads around the area are extremely dangerous, so business and families bring their cars and trucks to the front of the church for a blessing. It was amazing to watch because the tradition has roots in the Aymara culture-they spray their car with alcohol before heading on dangerous roads to please the gods.People decoarte their cars with flowers and statues, then pour champagne and beer all over the car, and then light firecrakcers. The cathedral had a separate chapel of candles, where you can go to light a candle in honor of someone or for a special intention. People take the wax, and write words, or make pictures of things they pray for. This was a very cultural and moving experience.

Around 12, we had an amazing lunch at Restaurante Kupula. Our table ordered fondue, which came with bread, broccoli, cauliflower, pickles, olives, and an amazing quiona salad! It was a great lunch with a spectacular view of the Lake. Sunday the sun was out, but it was still about 30 degrees. But, with the sun, Copacabana reminded me of Santa Cruz, or a small beach town. After lunch we walked around the town and did some shopping. We did not have a ton of time becaue we were leaving around 4. The other travelers had a flight back to Cochabamba at 8, so we had to get to the airport in time for that.

I am staying in La Paz at the Maryknoll Center until Wednesday. I did some exploring today, and it is such an unique city. La Paz is very metropolitan, but still has such strong indigenous roots. It is quite a juxtaposition! Walking through a market today there are things people purchase to ward off bad spirits or to keep them safe. Very intereting! But, I really like this city. It is huge, and very hilly, but amazingly beautiful! More to come about the La Paz adventure!

Hope all is well at home, and I miss everyone terribly! Sending all my love!