Adventure Lake Titicaca: waves, sleet, and a lack of oxygen!

The days leading up to my excursion to Lake Titicaca and La Paz seemed to go by slowly because I was so looking forward to this trip! And, it definitely has been worth it!

On Friday morning I had to work at the baby home. I got up to take a shower, and just as I was about to put shampoo in my hair, the water tank ran out of water. So, the house was out of water for the day. So, the day started off weirdly. But, Pedacito was just as fun, but I do admit I was watching the clock more than usual, waiting for the time to leave and head to the airport. I had a little time before I had to be at the airport, so I helped the girls with their homework for a little while. When it was time to leave I felt so guilty! The girls told me they were not going to let me leave. I had to give each of them about 5 kisses and hugs, and I had to promise I was coming back. I really felt like I was abandoning them. It was a hard because I had been really looking forward to this trip, but felt horrible about leaving the girls.

All the travelers met at the Maryknoll Center at 5:30 to get cabs to the airport. two of the boys that rode in my cab were very sick. One had just gotten lab results back that explained all the different bacterias and ameobas he has in his system, and the other guy had been up the night before throwing up from somethng he ate. So, that was a fun taxi ride!

We landed in La Paz, the highest capital city in the world, around 8, and Willie, our driver for the weekend, met us at the airport. The airport is in El Alto, the area above La Paz. The city of La Paz is a huge bowl. Many people have flocked to the city to try and make a living. So, the city of La Paz now stretches up into the hills, with houses built right into the hills. El Alto, which began as part of La Paz, is now considered a city of its own because it is so populated, but extremely poor! The views from El Alto and driving into the bowl that is La Paz were incredible, especially at night! It was just amazing. Another girl that was on the trip is from Marin, and we both agreed that La Paz reminded us so much of San Francisco.

When we arrived at the MAryknoll Center in La Paz, where we were going to stay that night, a huge, delicious dinner was waiting for us--grilled chicken, potatoes, salad, broccoli, bread... Also, because of the extremely high altitude, the table was filled with cocoa leaves to chew and cocoa mate to drink. We ate all together, and then headed to bed because Willie was picking us up at 6 AM to head to Lake Titicaca!

The altitude is no joke! I had a horrible headache and stomach ache for most of the night and the next morning. I was drinking cocoa tea, coca-cola, and chewed cocoa leaves, and I think that combination helped! But, it is extremely hard to walk up hills because your lungs feel like they are going to collapse, and your muscles hurt from a lack of oxygen.

The drive to Copacabana and Lake Titicaca was amazing! When we fianlly got to see the Lake there was a huge rainbow over it! It was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen! During the drive, it was sleeting, hailing, and even began to snow! In order to get to Copacabana, we had cross to the other side of the lake. Our minibus was put on a barge and taken across the lake, while we rode in a very small boat. The weather was not good because of the wind and rain and hail. But, we survived!

After about 3.5-4 hours of driving, we fianlly made it to Copacabana. It was so gloomy, windy, and rainy! We planned to take a boat to Isla del Sol that day. We had a wait for about an hour because the conditions on the lake were dangerous. But, they gave us the okay, and we headed to the dock. The 3 hour boat ride to the northern part of Isla del Sol was one of the scariest times in my life! The waves were higher than the boat´s windows, and we all thought we were going to sink! However, miraculously, we survived this crazy boat ride.

When we got to the island, we decided to hike to the ruins, which we were told was a very easy 30 minute round-trip walk. It was a hike! We climbed up and up and up, and the altitude made it so hard to breathe. Lake Titicaca is over 14,000 feet, so everyone was exhausted and having trouble breathing! But, the views were incredible and made the intense hike worth it!

At the ruins, the indigenous people who were ancestors of those who built the ruins, set fire to businesses that were built there without the consent and to their disapproval. It was a very interesting time to be up there, and see the politics involved. Many of the people there did not speak Spanish, but spoke Aymara.

A tour guide gave us a short tour of the ruins, and showed us where mummies were kept, where the temple to worship was, and where sacred water to heal people had been found and used. The water was still there, so we got on our hands and knees, and crawled into this tiny cave to place water on our foreheads, just as the indigenous people used to do.

We stopped at the south end of Isla del Sol, and climbed all the way to the top of this mountian where a small community had been built. Even Lonley Planet recommended places to stay and eat way at the top! It was amazing, but again, it was a hard hike because it was stairs all the way up! By the time we started heading home, it was getting dark and the conditions on the water were much more dangerous than before. So, the captain decided to stop at the tip of land, and the hotel bus had to come pick us up! I am glad he decided to stop because it was definitely getting scary! And, the boat had no lights, and no radio. We took this narrow, dirt road back to Copacabana, which was a little scary at night.

When we got back to the hotel everyone was starving, so we split up to go to dinner. Scott, Alli, Jacob, Dan, and I ended up going to La Pasto, a quaint Italian food restaurant run by very hip people. Dinner was great! After dinner we all went to bed after a long day of hiking in the rain and sleet trying to fight the altitude.

Sunday was a much more relaxed day in Copacabana! We had breakfast at the hotel, went to mass at the cathedral in town, and shopped for a little bit. The cathedral in Copacabana is famous for car blessings. The roads around the area are extremely dangerous, so business and families bring their cars and trucks to the front of the church for a blessing. It was amazing to watch because the tradition has roots in the Aymara culture-they spray their car with alcohol before heading on dangerous roads to please the gods.People decoarte their cars with flowers and statues, then pour champagne and beer all over the car, and then light firecrakcers. The cathedral had a separate chapel of candles, where you can go to light a candle in honor of someone or for a special intention. People take the wax, and write words, or make pictures of things they pray for. This was a very cultural and moving experience.

Around 12, we had an amazing lunch at Restaurante Kupula. Our table ordered fondue, which came with bread, broccoli, cauliflower, pickles, olives, and an amazing quiona salad! It was a great lunch with a spectacular view of the Lake. Sunday the sun was out, but it was still about 30 degrees. But, with the sun, Copacabana reminded me of Santa Cruz, or a small beach town. After lunch we walked around the town and did some shopping. We did not have a ton of time becaue we were leaving around 4. The other travelers had a flight back to Cochabamba at 8, so we had to get to the airport in time for that.

I am staying in La Paz at the Maryknoll Center until Wednesday. I did some exploring today, and it is such an unique city. La Paz is very metropolitan, but still has such strong indigenous roots. It is quite a juxtaposition! Walking through a market today there are things people purchase to ward off bad spirits or to keep them safe. Very intereting! But, I really like this city. It is huge, and very hilly, but amazingly beautiful! More to come about the La Paz adventure!

Hope all is well at home, and I miss everyone terribly! Sending all my love!