La Paz: So modern, yet deeply indigenous!

On Sunday night when the students from Maryknoll flew back to Cochabamba, I stayed in La Paz at the Maryknoll house. I was able to get a few extra days off so I could explore the highest capital city in the world! And, it was worth it! It was a little strange traveling alone, but it was still an amazing time.

I did not get back into the city of La Paz until late on Sunday night. But, the ladies at the Maryknoll house had dinner waiting for me. Delicious chicken, vegetables, and potatoes. I wrote in my journal and got to talk with my mom and dad.

Monday morning I got up and got ready for my first day of exploring La Paz! I started at Plaza San Francisco, where there is an extremely beautiful church dedicated to Saint Francis. The main shopping district is in this area, and I walked around for a while looking at what was available to buy, and taking pictures. Calle Linares and Calle Sagarana are the main streets that have tons of places to buy traditional Bolivian goods--alpaca sweaters, traditional jewelry, music, instruments of the Andes, statues, textiles, etc. So I spent a good portion of the morning picking out souvenirs for family, friends, and myself.

The Cocoa Museum is also on Calle Linares. So, I went to the Museum to find out more about the leaf that is essential to the culture of the Andes, but is shunned by the United States. I did learn a lot about how Cocoa came to be and its cultural uses. Researchers have found traces of cocoa being chewed in skulls that are pre-Incan! Also, it has medicinal uses that have been practiced since the Incas. Interestingly, an American decided that majority of the people who lived in the Andean region were poor because of the function of cocoa in their culture. So, the UN decided to eradicate the cultivation of cocoa. The U.S. funded this, and assisted President Banzer, Bolivia's most violent dictator, with destroying cocoa fields throughout Bolivia. However, during this time, Coca-Cola was using cocoa flavoring to make the popular soft drink, so some cocoa production was continued just for the Coca-cola company. There were many more interesting facts about cocoa that should be read about before people jump to conclusions about the infamous leaf. Upstairs, there is a cafe to try food made with cocoa and a variety of cocoa drinks--cocoa iced tea, cocoa liquor, cocoa coffee, etc. I had the cocoa iced tea and a small shot of the cocoa liquor. They were both very good!

After the Cocoa Museum, I had lunch at Luna's Cafe in Calle Sagarana. I heard English, German, Spanish, Portuguese, and Japanese while eating lunch! There are literally people from all over the world who have come to visit La Paz! After lunch, I journeyed to the Witches' Market. The Witches' Market is a very traditional, indigenous market that sells everything from llama terds to llama fetuses, small statues to magical powders that one can use to ward off evil spirits, or bring luck, or protect. It was very interesting because many of the shop owners in the market will not sell to "gringos."

After wandering around for most of the day, I headed back to the main street, the Prado, and got a taxi back to the Maryknoll House. I had dinner with the women who work at the house and then did some reading and got to sleep early.

Tuesday was quite an exciting day! I slept in a little and got ready for a jam-packed day. It was my last full day in La Paz, and I wanted to see everything that I could. My first stop was Plaza Eduardo, where I took pictures and then found a quaint coffee shop, Alexander Coffee, to sit and plan my day. I had fresh-squeezed orange juice and a fresh baked empanada. After a quick break, I walked up towards the Prado, and cut down streets whenever something looked interesting. I ended up at Plaza Estudiante, which is surrounded by schools and Universities, so it was pretty chaotic. I stopped and had a snack at Ciudad Cafe at the very beginning of the Prado.

After, I started walking up the Prado, and stopped at Basilica Maria Auxiliadora. This chapel was one of the most amazing chapels I have ever seen! It was very simple, but had a beautiful, but simple mural of colors behind the altar. After a quick stop in the chapel, I went to the Modern Art Museum, which houses beautiful artwork, majority of which is by Bolivian Artists. My favorite works of art were by Eusebio Victor Choque Quispe, a local artist from La Paz. His paintings reflected the beauty of La Paz and the indigenous culture that envelops the capital city.

Then, I walked up the Prado trying to find a store that sold maps of La Paz. But, I got very lost. I had to stop at a cafe and sit down with a map and figure out where I was. I was close to Plaza Murillo and the Presidential Palace, so I headed there. Plaza Murillo is surrounded by the Presidential Palace, governmental offices, and the Main Cathedral. There were tons of people sitting in the plaza talking and feeding the pigeons. In the center of the plaza is a huge statue dedicated to La Paz.

I tried to go into the Cathedral, but soldiers were at the entrance not letting anyone in. So, I decided to walk around the plaza and take pictures. I saw a bunch of police cars sitting outside the Presidential Palace, and I decided to stay for a little bit to see what was happening. All of a sudden, two SUVs with tinted windows pull up and out walks President Evo Morales! The guards around him quickly got the President in one of the cars and the pulled off. I did not even have time to get my camera out! But, it was so exciting! After the President spotting, I sat on the steps of the Cathedral for a little bit, and then found the most amazing book store. I found a great map of La Paz, and a book entitled Libres! about women who suffered under Dictator Banzer. It is written in Spanish and I have been reading it. It is very interesting, but very heartbreaking. However, I am proud that I am reading a book that is written in Spanish and understanding majority of it!

After, I took a taxi to El Alto, the city above La Paz. I sat right on the rim overlooking La Paz and Illimani, the tall mountain in front of the city. It was absolutely breathtaking! I decided to be brave and take a taxi-trufi back down into the city, which was a great idea! I met locals and I feel like taking public transportation in Bolivia is really a great way to get to know the culture and the people. I went back to Calle Linares and Calle Sagarana to buy a few things I had forgotten the day before, and I visited the church of Saint Francis. Then, I went back towards Plaza Eduardo to get dinner. After a long, exciting day in La Paz, I headed back to the Maryknoll House very happy!

I had to leave Wednesday, so I slept in and got ready slowly. The ladies at the house had lunch ready for me early, and Willie took me to the airport. Driving to the airport, I realized that La Paz truly is a very magical city, and probably one of my most favorite cities I have ever visited! It is very modern and metropolitan, yet the indigenous culture, history, and traditions are still very alive.

I got back to Cochabamba around 3:30, and I was so happy to land because I have never been on a flight with so much turbulence! I unpacked and visited with the girls for a little bit. Then, I went to dinner with Carol at Casa de Campo, a restaurant that serves traditional Bolivian dishes. We had a great dinner, and I told her all about La Paz since she will be venturing there soon!

Since I have been back, I have been working at both homes. I really did miss the girls and the babies a lot, but I do miss La Paz! There is just something about La Paz that draws you in, and holds you close.

On Friday, Carol and I went deep into the Southern Zone, the very poor part of Cochabamba to visit Alfredo Murillo. Alfredo is a woodcarver, and he taught young men and women his unique trade. He now has a huge workshop in the south. Alfredo gave Carol and I a tour and showed us exactly how the process is completed. I got pictures, and will post them soon. These men and women have to cut these tiny, precise pieces of wood and make scenes. It is absolutely amazing! I bought a few things from Alfredo, and I hope to go back with mom and dad when they come down!

More to come this week! I miss everyone, and think about you all everyday! Sending my love!